Vila Nova de Milfontes: Alentejo Coast Base

Vila Nova de Milfontes is the favourite summer town on the Alentejo coast: a white village at the mouth of the Mira river, with river beaches on one side and wild Atlantic beaches on the other. It’s a great base for the Rota Vicentina trails and the Costa Vicentina Natural Park.

Quick answer: Milfontes is about 2 hours south of Lisbon. Swim at Praia da Franquia on the river, take the little boat across to Praia das Furnas, kayak up the Mira, walk the clifftop trails, and eat seafood in the village. It’s busy in August and blissfully quiet in spring and autumn. See places to stay in Milfontes.

Why go

Milfontes gives you two kinds of beach in one place. The river side is calm and sheltered, ideal for children and paddleboards. The ocean side is wild, with cliffs and big waves. The village itself is small and walkable, with whitewashed houses, a fort and plenty of places to eat. It sits in the municipality of Odemira, inside the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park.

Things to do

Beaches

• River beaches: calm, warmer water at Praia da Franquia and along the estuary. Franquia sits right by the village, so you can walk there.
• Praia do Farol: on the village side, where the river meets the sea below the little lighthouse. It gets more wind and waves than Franquia, and the currents at the river mouth are strong.
• Praia das Furnas: across the river, reached by car, a long walk or a small boat. It has dark cliffs, sea caves and both river and sea water, depending on the tide.
• Ocean beaches: wild beaches north and south of town, such as Malhão, a long open beach with dunes to the north. These are exposed to the Atlantic, so pick a guarded one in summer. Malhão and Aivados are popular with surfers. See surfing in Portugal.

History and the village

• The fort: the Forte de São Clemente stands on rocks at the river mouth. King João II founded the village in 1485, and pirates destroyed it in 1590. The fort followed, finished around 1602. It is now private accommodation, so you see it from outside.
• The old centre: a short walk of white lanes, the parish church and small squares. Allow an hour.
• Aviation history: in 1924, the pilots Sarmento de Beires and Brito Pais took off from a field near Milfontes on the first flight from Portugal to Macau.

Outdoors

• Kayaking and SUP up the Mira river. Rental places open along the riverside in summer. Paddling upriver on a rising tide is easier. See kayaking in Portugal.
• Hiking: the Fishermen’s Trail and Historical Way pass through. See Costa Vicentina. The clifftop stretch south towards Almograve is a popular day walk.
• River boat trips: short trips on the Mira to see birds and the green river banks.

Walking from Milfontes

Milfontes is a stage end on the Fishermen’s Trail, so you can walk in either direction and take a taxi back.

• North to Porto Covo: about 19 to 20 km along cliffs and dunes, passing Praia do Malhão. Much of it is on soft sand, so it is tiring. Allow most of a day.
• South to Almograve: about 14.6 km. You cross the river first, then follow the clifftops past small coves to Almograve’s beach. Allow five to six hours.
• Short option: walk over the road bridge to Praia das Furnas, then come back on the taxi boat.

Getting there

• By car: about 2 hours from Lisbon, mostly on the A2 motorway, then country roads to the coast. From the Algarve, allow around 2 hours from Lagos.
• By bus: Rede Expressos runs coaches from Lisbon, taking about 2 hours 30 minutes on the fastest services and longer on some. There is no train station on this coast. See Portugal by bus.
• Parking: easy out of season, harder in August. Leave the car at the edge of the village and walk in.
• The boat to Furnas: a small taxi boat crosses from the village to Praia das Furnas. It usually runs every month except December and January, during the day, so check times at the riverside.

How long to spend

Stay at least two nights. That gives you a river day, an ocean day and time for a walk.

A one-day route: swim at Praia da Franquia in the morning, then hire a kayak and paddle up the Mira. After lunch in the village, cross to Praia das Furnas for the afternoon. Come back to watch the sunset by the fort.

Food

• Seafood: grilled fish, clams, octopus and seafood rice are the staples here. See the Portuguese seafood guide.
• Percebes: goose barnacles from the rocks of this coast, a prized local treat.
• Alentejo dishes: bread soups, pork and lamb from inland. See Alentejo food.

When to go

July and August are hot, sunny and very busy with Portuguese holidaymakers. June and September are the best balance of warm weather and space. Spring is ideal for hiking, with wildflowers on the clifftops. In winter the village is very quiet and some places close.

In August the village celebrates its patron saint, Nossa Senhora da Graça. The festivities traditionally include a procession of decorated boats on the Mira. Check the dates locally.

Tips

• August: very busy with Portuguese holidaymakers. Book early.
• Currents: the river mouth has strong tidal currents. Do not swim near the channel.
• Car: the easiest way to explore the coast.
• Wind: afternoons can be breezy, so head to the river beaches when the ocean side is windy.

Nearby

• Porto Covo: see Porto Covo.
• Odeceixe: see Odeceixe.
• Comporta: see Comporta.

FAQ

How do you get from Lisbon to Milfontes without a car?

Take a Rede Expressos coach. The fastest services take about two and a half hours. There is no railway on this stretch of coast.

Which Milfontes beach is best for children?

Praia da Franquia, on the river by the village. The water is calm and a little warmer than the sea, but keep away from the channel at the river mouth.

How do you get to Praia das Furnas?

Take the small taxi boat across the river, drive round over the bridge, or walk. The boat is the quickest and most fun option.

Can you visit the fort in Milfontes?

Not as a museum. The Forte de São Clemente is private accommodation, so you see it from the outside and from the riverfront.

More: the best beach towns and the best road trips.

See also: Zambujeira do Mar and the best Alentejo beaches.

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