Carrapateira: Bordeira and Amado Beaches

Carrapateira is a tiny village on the Algarve’s west coast with two of Portugal’s most spectacular beaches: Bordeira, a vast expanse of sand and dunes, and Amado, a famous surf beach. A clifftop route between them has some of the best coastal views in the country.

Quick answer: Carrapateira is about 40 minutes from Lagos, between Aljezur and Sagres. Walk the boardwalk across the dunes to Praia da Bordeira, surf or watch the surfers at Praia do Amado, and drive or walk the Pontal da Carrapateira clifftop loop for views. See places to stay in Carrapateira.

Why go

The west coast of the Algarve is a different world from the busy south. It sits inside the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park, so there are no big resorts, just cliffs, dunes, wild beaches and Atlantic swell. Carrapateira, a small village in the municipality of Aljezur, is the best base for two of its finest beaches. Come for long walks, big skies and surfing, not for nightlife.

The village itself is only a few streets of white houses, a church on the hill and a handful of cafés and surf shops. Most of what you come for lies within 2 or 3 km, so you can park once and spend the whole day on foot.

Things to do

• Praia da Bordeira: a huge beach with dunes and a river lagoon, reached by boardwalk. The sand stretches for more than 3 km, and the Ribeira da Bordeira stream forms a shallow lagoon behind it that is popular with families. Allow a few hours.
• Praia do Amado: one of the Algarve’s best surf beaches, with several surf schools. It sits about 2 km south of the village, in a wide bay between cliffs, and its beach breaks work in most conditions. See surf lessons.
• The clifftop loop: a road and trail around the Pontal da Carrapateira headland between the two beaches, with viewpoints over sea stacks and coves. You can drive it with stops in about 30 minutes, or walk it in around two hours. Look down to see fishermen on the rocks far below.
• The village: the Museu do Mar e da Terra da Carrapateira, a small modern museum about life on the land and sea, up the hill from the village square. Its picture window looks out over the dunes. It usually opens Tuesday to Saturday, with shorter hours in winter, and there is a small entry fee. Check opening days before you go.
• Hiking: sections of the Rota Vicentina, including the clifftop Fishermen’s Trail, pass through Carrapateira. See Costa Vicentina and hiking in the Algarve.

Bordeira and Amado: which beach?

Praia da Bordeira

Bordeira is the one to pick for space and scenery. From the car park near the village, a wooden boardwalk crosses the dunes, and the first view of the beach from the top is one of the best on the coast. The lagoon at the back is warmer and calmer than the sea, so young children often paddle there while older ones head for the waves. The far northern end is usually almost empty, even in August.

Praia do Amado

Amado is the surfers’ beach. Its wide bay picks up swell from several directions, which is why surf schools run lessons here most of the year. Beginners stay in the white water near the shore, and more experienced surfers paddle out to the peaks. There is a large car park above the sand, and food and drink are usually available in season.

Getting there

• By car: Carrapateira is about 35 km northwest of Lagos on the N268, the road that runs from Vila do Bispo to Aljezur. Allow about 40 minutes from Lagos, about 20 minutes from Aljezur and around 25 minutes from Sagres. There are car parks at both beaches and on the headland, though they fill up on summer afternoons.
• By bus: regional buses along the west coast are infrequent and do not suit a day trip well. A car gives you much more freedom here. See car rental in Portugal.
• From Faro: about 1 hour 30 minutes by car, using the toll-free A22 as far as Lagos and then local roads to the N268.
• On the clifftop road: parts of the Pontal loop are unpaved and bumpy. Drive slowly and park only in marked spots.

How long to spend

A full day is ideal. A simple plan:

• Morning: drive the Pontal clifftop loop while the light is soft and the car parks are empty.
• Late morning: a surf lesson or a swim at Amado.
• Lunch: grilled fish in the village or at one of the beach restaurants.
• Afternoon: cross the boardwalk to Bordeira and walk the beach or paddle in the lagoon.
• Sunset: back up on the cliffs.

With only half a day, choose one beach and the clifftop loop.

Food

• Percebes: goose barnacles picked from the rocks of this coast, a prized local delicacy.
• Grilled fish and octopus: simple and very fresh.
• Sweet potato: the Aljezur area is famous for its batata-doce, which turns up in cakes and side dishes.

When to go

• Spring and autumn: the best time for walking, with green cliffs and fewer people.
• Summer: warm days and lifeguards on the main beaches, but the Atlantic stays cool.
• Autumn and winter: bigger swell for experienced surfers. Aljezur’s sweet potato festival is usually held over a weekend in late November.

Tips

• Waves and currents: swim only with lifeguards.
• Wind: the west coast is often breezy. Bring a layer and a windbreak.
• Cliff edges: stay well back, as the cliffs can crumble.
• Nature park: keep to marked paths and boardwalks to protect the dunes.
• Sunsets from the cliffs are spectacular. See the best sunset spots.

FAQ

Can you swim at Praia da Bordeira?

Yes, but the open sea can have strong currents, so swim only where lifeguards are on duty in summer. The shallow lagoon behind the beach is calmer and better for small children.

Is Praia do Amado good for beginner surfers?

Yes. Surf schools run lessons there most of the year, and beginners learn in the white water close to the shore. Bigger winter swells suit experienced surfers.

Do you need a car to visit Carrapateira?

It helps a lot. Buses on the west coast are infrequent, while the drive from Lagos takes about 40 minutes and both beaches have car parks.

How long does the Pontal clifftop loop take?

About 30 minutes by car with stops, or around two hours on foot. Go early in summer, when the viewpoints are quieter.

More: Aljezur, Sagres and surfing in Portugal.

See also: Arrifana Beach.

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