Faial Island, Azores: Horta, Capelinhos and the Caldeira

Faial, the “blue island”, is famous for its hydrangeas, the sailors’ harbour of Horta and the moon-like landscape of the Capelinhos volcano, which erupted in 1957–58. It’s also the perfect base for visiting Pico across the channel. Here’s how to visit Faial.

Quick answer: see the paintings on Horta marina’s walls and have a drink at Peter Café Sport, visit the Capelinhos volcano and its underground interpretation centre (€10), walk around the rim of the Caldeira, and take the 30-minute ferry to Pico.

Why go

Faial packs a lot into a small island. In one day you can drink with Atlantic sailors in Horta, look into a vast green crater and stand on land that didn’t exist 70 years ago. Horta is one of the most relaxed and characterful towns in the Azores, and with Pico’s volcano filling the view across the water, it’s a lovely place to base yourself for a few days.

Horta

• The marina: a famous stopover for yachts crossing the Atlantic. Sailors paint the harbour walls for good luck, and the colourful paintings cover every surface. Allow half an hour to wander and read them.
• Peter Café Sport: a legendary sailors’ bar, known for its gin and its scrimshaw museum, a collection of carved whale teeth and bone upstairs. The bar has been run by the same family for over a century and still acts as a meeting point and message board for crews.
• The whaling factory: the old Porto Pim whale factory is now a museum, with the original machinery used to process sperm whales until whaling ended.
• The town: churches, a waterfront promenade and views across to Pico. Climb Monte da Guia, the headland above Porto Pim, for the best view.
• Horta Museum: a small town museum with local history and fine carvings made from fig-tree pith, a Faial tradition.

Capelinhos

At the island’s western tip, a volcano erupted from the sea in 1957–58, burying a lighthouse and creating new land. The striking interpretation centre is built underground, and you can climb the old lighthouse for a view over the ash fields. A full ticket costs about €10 for adults, with cheaper tickets for single parts of the visit and reductions or free entry for children, young people and seniors. Check the current prices on the Azores Natural Parks site.

The centre is usually open daily from April to October, about 9am to 6pm, and from November to March from Tuesday to Saturday, closing earlier and shut on Sundays and Mondays. Last entry is about an hour before closing, and it can close in bad weather. Allow two hours, plus time to walk on the grey slopes outside.

The eruption lasted about 13 months and forced many families in the area to emigrate, many of them to the United States. The exhibition tells that story along with the geology. See the Capelinhos volcano guide for more.

The Caldeira

A huge volcanic crater in the centre of the island, about 2km across and 400m deep, lined with green vegetation. A road climbs to a viewpoint at the rim. On a clear day, walk the full loop around the edge: about 7km, taking two to three hours. Cloud often sits on top, so check the weather cams or look up from Horta before you drive up.

The crater floor is a protected nature reserve, and access is restricted, so stay on the rim path. The rim is exposed and can be very windy, so bring a jacket even in summer.

Other highlights

• Hydrangeas: blue hedges line the roads in early summer.
• Whale watching from Horta. Sperm whales and dolphins are seen year-round, and other whales pass in spring. See whale watching in the Azores.
• Beaches: Porto Pim, a sheltered sandy bay next to Horta, and the black-sand beach at Almoxarife with Pico views.
• Varadouro: natural rock pools on the west coast, good for a swim on a calm summer day.
• Pico: 30 minutes by ferry. See Pico.

How long to spend

Two full days cover Faial’s highlights. Add one or two more for a day trip to Pico or a whale-watching trip.

A one-day route

• Morning: drive up to the Caldeira early, before cloud builds.
• Midday: continue west to Capelinhos and the interpretation centre.
• Afternoon: a swim at Varadouro on the way back along the south coast.
• Evening: back to Horta for the marina, sunset from Monte da Guia and a drink at Peter’s.

Getting there

• Flights: Faial’s airport has links to other islands and Lisbon.
• Ferries: year-round to Pico and São Jorge (the “Triangle”), and in summer to more islands.
• Getting around: hire a car for the Caldeira and Capelinhos, as island buses are infrequent. Taxis and tours are other options.

The airport is near Castelo Branco on the south coast, about 15 minutes’ drive from Horta. Ferries to Pico leave from Horta’s port, a short walk from the town centre. Ferry times change by season and with the weather, so check the Atlanticoline timetable.

Food

Try fresh fish, limpets, octopus and alcatra, a slow-cooked beef dish from neighbouring Terceira that’s found across the islands. Wash it down with Pico wine from across the channel.

• Cracas: giant barnacles, a local delicacy eaten straight from the shell.
• Local cheese: look for cheeses from Faial and neighbouring São Jorge.

When to go

June to September brings the warmest weather and the hydrangeas. The Semana do Mar (Sea Week) in early August fills Horta with sailing races, concerts and fireworks, so book ahead if you’re visiting then. See the best time to visit the Azores.

Spring is busy in the marina, as yachts arrive from the Caribbean on their way to Europe. Winter is mild but wet and windy, and ferries can be cancelled in rough seas.

FAQ

Is Faial worth visiting?

Yes. Horta is one of the most charming towns in the Azores, and Capelinhos is unlike anywhere else in the islands. It is also the easiest base for a day trip to Pico.

How many days do you need on Faial?

Two full days cover the Caldeira, Capelinhos and Horta. Add a day or two for Pico or a whale-watching trip.

How do you get from Faial to Pico?

Ferries run year-round from Horta to Madalena on Pico, and the crossing takes about 30 minutes. Check current times, as sailings can be cancelled in bad weather.

Can you visit Capelinhos in winter?

Yes. From November to March the interpretation centre usually opens Tuesday to Saturday, and the volcano landscape outside can be seen at any time.

See Faial tours · places to stay in Horta.

More: Azores island hopping and the Azores travel guide.

See also: the Capelinhos volcano and the best beaches in the Azores.

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