Flores Island, Azores: Waterfalls and Crater Lakes

Flores, the westernmost island of the Azores (and of Europe), is often called the most beautiful: dozens of waterfalls pour down green cliffs, crater lakes glitter in the hills, and hydrangeas line every road. It’s remote and wild, and well worth the extra effort. Here’s how to visit Flores.

Quick answer: see the waterfalls at Poço do Bacalhau and around Fajã Grande, the Rocha dos Bordões basalt columns, and the Sete Lagoas crater lakes, and hike the coastal trails. Fly in from São Miguel, Terceira or Faial, allow at least 3 days, and keep a spare day in case the weather delays your flight.

Why go

Flores sits on the North American plate, far out in the Atlantic, and it feels like the end of the map. There are no big resorts and very few crowds. Instead you get sheer green cliffs, more waterfalls than you can count, and villages of a few hundred people. The whole island is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. If you love hiking, nature and quiet, it’s the highlight of many Azores trips.

Things to see

• Poço do Bacalhau: a waterfall of around 90m dropping from an old sea cliff into a pool near Fajã Grande. It’s a short, easy walk from the village. Swim in summer if you don’t mind cold water.
• Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro: also called Poço da Alagoinha, where more than 20 thin falls stream down a mossy amphitheatre into a still pool. A slippery path of about 15 minutes leads down from a small car park above Fajã Grande. The pool is not for swimming.
• Ribeira Grande waterfalls and the cliffs above Fajã Grande, streaked with cascades. After rain, you can see a dozen or more falling at once.
• Rocha dos Bordões: a striking wall of vertical basalt columns, formed as lava cooled and cracked. There’s a roadside viewpoint, so it only takes 15 minutes.
• The crater lakes: Lagoa Funda, Lagoa Rasa, Lagoa Negra, Lagoa Comprida and more, in the high centre of the island. Lagoa Negra, at about 108m, is the deepest lake in the Azores. Viewpoints sit right by the road, but cloud often hides them, so try again later if they’re fogged in.
• Fajã Grande: a village at the foot of the cliffs, perfect for sunsets over the ocean, with natural rock pools for swimming.
• Santa Cruz das Flores: the main town, home to the airport and a small whaling museum in an old whale factory.
• Boat trips to sea caves and, weather permitting, to tiny Corvo island.

Hiking

The island has beautiful trails, and the official Azores trails website lists each one with maps and its current status. Check it before you go: the famous coastal walk between Ponta Delgada (Flores) and Fajã Grande (PR01 FLO) is listed as closed at the time of writing, as is one stage of the round-island Grande Rota.

• Lajedo to Fajã Grande (PR02 FLO): about 13km and around three and a half hours, passing the Rocha dos Bordões on the way to the west coast.
• Miradouro das Lagoas to Poço do Bacalhau (PR03 FLO): about 7km and around three hours, from the crater lakes down to the waterfall. It’s steep in places and hard on the knees.
• Fajã de Lopo Vaz (PRC04 FLO): a short loop of about 3.4km down an old cliff path to a sheltered cove in the south.

Paths can be muddy and slippery. Arrange a taxi back to your start point, as buses are few.

How long to spend

Three days is the minimum to see the highlights and do one or two hikes. Four or five days gives you a buffer for bad weather and a day trip to Corvo.

A one-day driving route

• Morning: the crater lakes in the centre of the island while the air is clearest.
• Midday: Rocha dos Bordões, then down to Fajã Grande.
• Afternoon: walk to Poço do Bacalhau and the waterfalls, then stay for sunset.

Getting there

• Flights: inter-island flights with SATA Air Açores from São Miguel (about 1h30), Terceira and Faial (under an hour from Horta). From Lisbon or Porto you’ll usually change in Ponta Delgada or Terceira. Fog and wind can cause delays, so build in buffer days.
• Ferries: a small boat links Flores with Corvo. Connections to the other islands are limited and seasonal, so check current timetables.
• Car: hire one to explore; the island is small but hilly. Book early in summer, as there are few cars to go round.

Visiting Corvo

Corvo, the smallest inhabited island in the Azores, has a few hundred people in one village. The Atlânticoline boat crosses in under an hour, and local operators run summer day trips. Once there, a taxi takes you up to the Caldeirão crater. Rough seas cancel crossings, so stay flexible. See Corvo.

Food

Expect simple, hearty island cooking: fresh fish, octopus, limpets, local cheese and stews. Restaurants are few and some close early or out of season, so plan dinner ahead, especially in Fajã Grande. Buy picnic food in Santa Cruz or Lajes.

When to go

June to September for the best chance of clear weather and hydrangeas. Even in summer, expect rain showers and fast-changing cloud. Winter brings storms that can cut flights for days. See the best time to visit the Azores.

The biggest party is the Festa do Emigrante in Lajes das Flores, usually over several days in July, with concerts and food. Rooms and cars are scarce that week.

Practical tips

• Cash: carry some, as card machines and ATMs are limited outside Santa Cruz.
• Layers and a rain jacket: essential at any time of year.
• Book early: places to stay are few and fill in summer. See where to stay in the Azores.
• Bases: Santa Cruz for the airport and restaurants, or Fajã Grande for the waterfalls and sunsets.

FAQ

Is Flores worth visiting?

Yes, if you like walking, waterfalls and quiet. It’s harder to reach than São Miguel, but many rate it the most scenic island.

How do you get to Flores from São Miguel?

SATA Air Açores flies from Ponta Delgada in about an hour and a half. Ferries between the island groups are limited and seasonal, so flying is the practical option.

Can you swim at Poço do Bacalhau?

Yes, in summer, though the water is cold and there are no lifeguards. Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro is not for swimming.

How many days do you need on Flores?

At least three, plus a spare day for flight delays.

More: Azores island hopping and the Azores travel guide. Browse Azores stays.

See also: Corvo.

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