Nordeste: Sao Miguel's Wild East

Nordeste, the remote eastern end of São Miguel, is the island’s wildest and greenest corner, with deep valleys, waterfalls, flower-filled viewpoints, a dramatic lighthouse and very few tourists. It’s a perfect full-day road trip from Ponta Delgada or Furnas.

Quick answer: drive the coast road to see the garden viewpoints of Ponta do Sossego and Ponta da Madrugada, the Ribeira dos Caldeirões waterfall and old mills, and the Farol do Arnel lighthouse. Hike to the Salto do Prego waterfall from Faial da Terra. Allow a full day.

Why go

For a long time Nordeste was the hardest part of São Miguel to reach, and it still feels apart from the rest of the island. Roads wind in and out of steep valleys, the roadsides are planted with flowers, and the viewpoints are kept like public gardens. It is also home to the island’s highest peak, Pico da Vara, and the last native forest where the rare priolo (Azores bullfinch) lives. You come here for scenery and quiet, not for big sights.

Things to do

• Ponta do Sossego: a manicured garden viewpoint above the ocean in Lomba da Pedreira. It is the largest garden in the municipality, with terraces of flowers, picnic tables and views along the cliffs. Allow 20 to 30 minutes.
• Ponta da Madrugada: a sunrise viewpoint with flowers, picnic tables and barbecues, close to Ponta do Sossego. As one of the first places on the island to catch the morning light, it is worth an early start.
• Ribeira dos Caldeirões: a natural park in the parish of Achada with a waterfall, tree ferns, hydrangeas and five restored watermills. The mills date back centuries, and one holds a small museum. Entry is free and the park is always open, while the craft shop, tourist office and snack bar keep their own hours. Allow 45 minutes.
• Farol do Arnel: the island’s oldest lighthouse, first lit in November 1876. It is a white tower above a tiny fishing harbour at the bottom of a very steep road. Walk down if you’re not confident driving it: the road is narrow, there is no parking at the bottom, and it is about 500 metres each way. The lighthouse has opened for free visits on Wednesday afternoons, so check before you go if you want to see inside.
• Nordeste village: a pretty bridge and town square. The 19th-century Ponte dos Sete Arcos (Bridge of Seven Arches) is the village landmark, and there is a small church and municipal garden nearby.
• Centro Ambiental do Priolo: an environmental centre about the priolo and the native forest of the Tronqueira mountains. Check opening times before you go.
• Salto da Farinha: a waterfall more than 40 metres high in the parish of Salga, close to the north coast road. There is a viewpoint with picnic tables and toilets, and the falls are fullest in winter.
• More viewpoints: Vista dos Barcos looks along the coast to the Arnel lighthouse, and Pico dos Bodes, at roughly 490 metres, gives a wide view inland and out to sea.
• Praia do Lombo Gordo: a small black-sand beach at the bottom of a steep path. The sea can be rough, so only swim on calm days.
• Salto do Prego: see the Salto do Prego waterfall.

Climbing Pico da Vara

At about 1,100 metres, Pico da Vara is the highest point on São Miguel. The official trail, PRC07 SMI, starts near the forest guard house of the Atalhada reserve in Santo António de Nordestinho. It is about 7.3 km, takes around 3 hours and is rated hard. Access is controlled: fill in the request form on the official Azores trails website first. Forestry work has been under way on the first section. The top is often in cloud, so save it for a clear day. See hiking in Portugal.

Getting there

• Car: essential. See getting around the Azores.
• From Ponta Delgada: the fastest way to Nordeste village is the expressway along the north coast, which takes about an hour.
• From Furnas: head through Povoação and follow the coast road north to the viewpoints. It is slow and winding, so allow plenty of time.
• Buses: a handful of buses a day run from Ponta Delgada to Nordeste village, and the trip is slow. They won’t take you to the viewpoints.
• Driving tips: roads are narrow with many bends. Fill up with fuel before you leave the bigger towns.

A one-day loop

Start early from Ponta Delgada along the south coast. Walk to Salto do Prego from Faial da Terra in the morning, then drive north to Ponta da Madrugada and Ponta do Sossego for a picnic lunch. Continue to the Arnel lighthouse and Nordeste village, stop at Ribeira dos Caldeirões, and return to Ponta Delgada along the north coast. If you want a gentler day, drop the hike and add time in Furnas instead.

Food

Restaurants are few and far between, so a picnic at one of the viewpoints is a good plan. Nordeste village and the larger parishes have cafés and simple restaurants serving grilled fish, limpets, octopus and meat stews. Pick up Azorean cheese, sweet bread (massa sovada) and local pineapple in Ponta Delgada before you set off.

When to go

• Summer: the hydrangeas lining the roads are usually at their best from about June to August.
• Spring and autumn: quieter, still green, with more chance of showers.
• Weather: the east is often wetter and greener than the rest of the island. Cloud can sit over the hills, so a clear morning is worth using.
• Festivals: Nordeste marks its municipal holiday on 18 July, with summer festivities around that date. Holy Spirit festivals fill the villages from spring into summer.

Tips

• Combine with Furnas on the way. See Furnas.
• Toilets and picnic tables: the main viewpoints usually have both.
• Allow time: distances look short on a map, but the roads are slow.
• Stay over: a night in the area lets you catch sunrise at Ponta da Madrugada. See São Miguel hotels.

FAQ

Is Nordeste worth a day trip?

Yes, if you like scenery and quiet roads. There are no big sights, but the garden viewpoints, waterfalls and lighthouse easily fill a day.

Can you visit Nordeste without a car?

Only partly. A few buses run from Ponta Delgada to Nordeste village, but they don’t stop at the viewpoints, so a hire car or a guided tour works much better.

Do you need permission to climb Pico da Vara?

Yes. Access to the PRC07 SMI trail is controlled, and you need to fill in the request form on the official Azores trails website before you set out.

Can you drive down to the Farol do Arnel?

The road is very steep and narrow, with no parking at the bottom, so most visitors walk the roughly 500 metres down from the top.

More: the São Miguel itinerary and Portugal’s hidden gems.

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