Furnas, Sao Miguel: Hot Springs, Cozido and More

Furnas is São Miguel’s volcanic heart: a green valley full of bubbling hot springs and steaming fumaroles, with stew cooked in the ground and warm thermal pools to soak in. Here’s how to spend a day (or a night) in Furnas.

Quick answer: Furnas is about an hour from Ponta Delgada. Don’t miss the caldeiras (fumaroles) in the village, cozido das Furnas stew cooked underground by the lake, the warm iron-rich pool at Terra Nostra Park, and the hot pools of Poça da Dona Beija. Bring an old dark swimsuit, as the water stains. See Furnas tours.

Why go

Furnas sits inside a volcanic crater in the east of São Miguel, and the ground here is still very much alive. Steam rises from vents between the houses, springs run hot, cold and fizzy, and the whole valley smells faintly of sulphur. Add lush 18th and 19th-century gardens and warm pools you can bathe in all year, and it’s the most memorable day out on the island.

Things to do

The caldeiras

Boiling springs and steaming vents right in the village, smelling of sulphur. Wooden walkways lead between them, and locals boil corn on the cob in the hot water. You can also taste the mineral springs, each with its own flavour. Allow 30 to 45 minutes, and it’s free.

Cozido das Furnas

A stew of meats, sausages and vegetables slow-cooked for around five hours in pots buried in the hot ground by Lake Furnas. Watch the pots being lifted around midday, then eat the stew in a village restaurant (reserve ahead).

Terra Nostra Park

Historic gardens, begun in the late 18th century by Thomas Hickling, an American merchant, and expanded in the 19th century. Today they hold big collections of camellias, ferns and cycads. The highlight is a large, warm, iron-rich thermal pool (usually around 35 to 40°C) that turns the water orange-brown. There are smaller hot pools too. In 2026 entry costs about €17 for adults and €14.50 for ages 6 to 17 and over-65s, and includes the pools. Tickets are for a set date and go on sale online about 15 days ahead. In 2026 the park and pools open daily from 10:30am to 4:30pm, with last entry 30 minutes before closing. The pool can get busy, so go early or late. Allow at least 2 hours.

Poça da Dona Beija

A set of small hot pools, at about 39°C, in a lush, ferny setting. It’s magical after dark. It’s usually open daily until late evening, with last entry around 9:30pm and the pools cleared by 10:30pm. Tickets are sold online only, for a set time, and can’t be changed or refunded: €12 until 5:30pm and €16 in the evening in 2026, for a stay of up to 1 hour 30 minutes. See the Azores hot springs compared.

Lagoa das Furnas

A lake just west of the village, with its own field of fumaroles where the cozido pots are buried. A path runs right round the shore. On the far side is the neo-Gothic chapel of Nossa Senhora das Vitórias, built in the 19th century, plus a monitoring and research centre with displays on the volcano. Visitors who don’t live in the Azores pay a small fee, about €3 per person, to enter the lakeside fumarole area.

Nearby

• Gorreana tea plantation: Europe’s oldest tea plantation still in production, on the north coast, with free entry and a tasting room. See Gorreana tea plantation.
• Miradouro do Pico do Ferro: a viewpoint over the valley and lake.
• Ribeira Quente: a fishing village with a beach warmed by underwater hot springs.
• Salto do Prego: a waterfall walk from the village of Faial da Terra, on the south coast.

Getting there

• Car: Furnas is about 45km from Ponta Delgada, roughly an hour’s drive. There are car parks by the caldeiras, the lake and Terra Nostra.
• Bus: regional buses run from Ponta Delgada a few times a day, taking about an hour and a half. Check the last bus back.
• Tour: many day tours combine Furnas with a cozido lunch and Gorreana.

How long to spend

One full day covers the main sights. Stay a night if you want a relaxed soak without the crowds.

A one-day route

1. Morning: walk around Lagoa das Furnas, see the chapel and the fumaroles.
2. Midday: watch the cozido pots come out of the ground.
3. Lunch: cozido in the village.
4. Afternoon: the caldeiras in the village, then Terra Nostra Park and its pool.
5. Evening: Poça da Dona Beija after dark.

Book your Terra Nostra date and your Poça da Dona Beija time before you set off, so the day isn’t built around queues.

Food

Cozido is the star, and portions are big, so share or skip breakfast. Furnas is also famous for bolo lêvedo, a slightly sweet, flat muffin-like bread, and you can buy corn cooked in the caldeiras. Try the local cheeses and a glass of fizzy mineral water from the springs.

When to go

The pools are warm all year, which makes Furnas a good choice on a cool or rainy day. Spring and early summer bring the gardens into flower, and the camellias at Terra Nostra bloom in winter. Summer is busiest.

Stay the night

Staying in Furnas lets you soak in the pools after the day-trippers leave. See places to stay in Furnas, or see São Miguel hotels.

Tips

• Swimwear: the iron-rich water stains light fabrics permanently. Pack an old dark swimsuit and towel.
• Jewellery: remove silver before soaking.
• Book cozido lunches and pool slots in summer.
• Check times: opening hours and prices for the parks change by season, so check them before you go.

FAQ

How much does Terra Nostra Park cost?

In 2026 it’s about €17 for adults and €14.50 for ages 6 to 17 and over-65s, including the thermal pool. Buy online for a set date.

Do you need to book Poça da Dona Beija?

Yes. Tickets are sold online only, for a set time, with no changes or refunds, so book once your plans are fixed.

Is Furnas worth a day trip from Ponta Delgada?

Yes. It’s about an hour each way, and one full day covers the lake, the caldeiras, a cozido lunch and Terra Nostra. Stay the night if you want an evening soak.

Can you bathe in the hot pools in winter?

Yes. The pools are warm all year, so they’re a good plan on a cool or rainy day. Just check the shorter winter opening hours.

More: the São Miguel itinerary, the Sete Cidades guide and Lagoa do Fogo.

See also: the Salto do Prego waterfall and what to eat in the Azores.

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