Ilha Deserta: Faro's Desert Island

Ilha Deserta (officially Ilha da Barreta) is the southernmost point of mainland Portugal: a long, car-free barrier island in the Ria Formosa, with empty beaches, dunes and a boardwalk. It’s a short boat ride from Faro and feels like a castaway escape.

Quick answer: take a ferry from Faro (about 45 minutes; check current fares when you book). Walk the boardwalk across the island, swim from the long ocean beach, and have lunch at the island’s restaurant (book in summer). Bring water and sun protection, as there’s little shade.

Why go

Most Algarve beaches have a town behind them. Ilha Deserta has nothing but sand, dunes and lagoon. There are no roads, no houses and no hotels, just a ferry pier, a single restaurant and a long wooden walkway. That is the whole point. Even in August you can walk ten minutes along the shore and find space to yourself. The boat trip through the channels of the Ria Formosa is part of the fun, with birds, oyster beds and fishing boats along the way.

It is the only barrier island in the Ria Formosa with nobody living on it. The other islands, such as Culatra and Armona, have villages or holiday homes. Here the only building of note is the restaurant, which runs on solar power and makes its own fresh water.

Things to do

• The beach: miles of quiet sand facing the Atlantic. The ocean side has clean, fine sand and clear water. Walk away from the pier to find the emptiest stretches. In the summer bathing season, a section near the pier usually has lifeguards, thatched sunshades and loungers for hire. Beyond it the beach is unguarded.
• The boardwalk: a nature trail through the dunes, with information about plants and birds. It runs across the island and along it, and you can walk as much or as little as you like.
• Cabo de Santa Maria: the southernmost point of mainland Portugal. The walk there from the pier is a little over 3 km each way along the boardwalk and sand, so allow at least two hours for the round trip with stops. A wooden marker with signposts to cities around the world shows you have arrived.
• Seafood lunch at the island restaurant, which looks over the sea. It is the only place to eat, so book ahead in summer.
• Birdwatching on the lagoon side. Look for egrets, herons, waders and gulls on the mudflats, especially at low tide.

Nature on the island

Ilha Deserta is part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, a protected lagoon of channels, salt marsh and sandy islands that stretches about 60 km along the coast. More than 50 kinds of plants grow along the island trail, and in the dunes they hold the sand in place, which is why you are asked to keep to the walkway. In spring and autumn the lagoon fills with migrating birds. Bring binoculars if you have them. See wildlife in Portugal.

Getting there

Ferries and boat tours leave from Faro’s waterfront near the old town. Check return times carefully, as services are limited outside summer. See ferries in Portugal and Ria Formosa tours.

• The ferry: the regular service is run by the island’s operator, Animaris, from the piers beside Faro’s old town walls. Check the boarding point when you book. The crossing takes about 45 minutes. In summer there are several boats a day, and fewer in the low season.
• The speedboat: Animaris also runs a faster boat that takes about 15 minutes. It costs roughly twice as much as the regular ferry, but it gives you more time on the sand.
• Booking: book online in advance, especially in July and August, and buy a return. Fares change by season, so check the current price.
• Boat tours: some Ria Formosa tours stop at the island as part of a longer trip. These cost more but add a guide and other stops.
• Getting to the pier: it is a short walk from Faro’s marina and the old town. Faro train and bus stations are about 10 minutes away on foot.

How long to spend

Most people spend a half day or a full day. A relaxed day might look like this:

• Morning: catch one of the first boats from Faro.
• Late morning: walk the boardwalk and swim.
• Lunch: seafood at the restaurant.
• Afternoon: walk to Cabo de Santa Maria or just lie on the beach, then take a late afternoon boat back.
• Evening: dinner in Faro’s old town.

Food

There is only one restaurant on the island, Estaminé, so plan around it or bring a picnic. It is also the only place with toilets. Menus focus on what the Ria Formosa does best:

• Clams and oysters from the lagoon.
• Grilled fish and seafood rice.
• Cold white wine or vinho verde with the sea view.

See the seafood guide for what to order.

When to go

• June and September: warm sea, long days and fewer people.
• July and August: the busiest months, so book the ferry and lunch early.
• Spring and autumn: good for walking and birdwatching, with cooler air.
• Winter: the boat runs less often and the restaurant may keep shorter hours. Check before you go.

Tips

• Bring: water, snacks, sunscreen and an umbrella. There is almost no natural shade.
• Protected area: stay on the boardwalk in the dunes.
• Last boat: note the time of the last ferry back and be at the pier early.
• Wind: afternoon breezes can be strong, so a light layer helps on the boat.
• Combine with Faro’s old town. See Faro.

FAQ

How do you get to Ilha Deserta?

Only by boat from Faro. The regular ferry takes about 45 minutes and the speedboat about 15, both leaving from the piers by the old town.

Is there anywhere to eat on Ilha Deserta?

Yes, but only one place: the Estaminé restaurant near the pier. Book a table in summer, or bring a picnic and plenty of water.

Are there lifeguards on Ilha Deserta?

In the summer bathing season, a stretch of beach near the pier is usually guarded. The rest of the island’s long beach has no lifeguards, so swim with care.

Can you visit Ilha Deserta in winter?

Yes. Boats run less often and the restaurant may keep shorter hours, so check the timetable and book before you go.

More: the Ria Formosa Natural Park and Portugal’s hidden gems.

See also: Culatra Island.

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