Costa Nova: The Striped Houses Near Aveiro

Costa Nova, near Aveiro, is famous for its candy-striped houses, the palheiros, painted in bold red, blue, green and yellow stripes. With a lagoon on one side and the Atlantic beach on the other, it’s one of Portugal’s most photographed seaside villages. Here’s how to visit.

Quick answer: Costa Nova is about 15 to 20 minutes from Aveiro by car or bus, and about an hour from Porto. Photograph the striped houses on the lagoon-side avenue, walk to the beach across the dunes, eat seafood, and see Portugal’s tallest lighthouse at nearby Praia da Barra. See Aveiro and Costa Nova tours from Porto.

Why go

Costa Nova sits on a narrow strip of sand between the Ria de Aveiro lagoon and the open Atlantic. On one side you get calm water, fishing boats and those striped houses. On the other, a huge, wild beach backed by dunes. It’s small, easy to walk around and pairs perfectly with a day in Aveiro.

It’s part of the municipality of Ílhavo, a town with a long history of cod fishing, so you can add a museum or two on the way back to Aveiro and make it a fuller day.

The striped houses

The palheiros were originally wooden huts where fishermen stored their gear and nets, and some families lived in them during the fishing season. Over time they were rebuilt as holiday homes, and the bright stripes became the village’s trademark. Today they’re holiday homes and guesthouses. The best row faces the lagoon on the main avenue, and a stroll along it takes 20 to 30 minutes with photo stops.

Most of the houses are painted in stripes of one colour on white, either vertical or horizontal, and the effect comes from seeing them side by side. Walk the whole row once, then come back to the ones you like best for photos.

Things to do

• Photos along the striped house front. See the most Instagrammable places.
• The beach: a long Atlantic beach behind the dunes, with boardwalks and lifeguards in summer.
• Seafood: restaurants and the little fish market on the lagoon front, where local fishermen sell the morning’s catch.
• Praia da Barra lighthouse: Portugal’s tallest lighthouse, about 62 metres high, a few minutes north. It usually opens for free visits on Wednesday afternoons (around 2pm to 5pm), with 288 steps to the top. Check before you go.
• Cycling: bike paths link Costa Nova, Barra and the lagoon. It’s flat and easy riding.
• The lagoon promenade: watch the boats and the wading birds at low tide.

Nearby in Ílhavo

• Ílhavo Maritime Museum: tells the story of the cod fishermen who sailed to Newfoundland and Greenland, with a cod aquarium. Its old trawler, the Santo André, is a ship museum moored nearby in Gafanha da Nazaré. Allow about an hour and check opening days before you go.
• Vista Alegre: the historic porcelain factory on the edge of Ílhavo, with a museum, a chapel and a factory shop.

Getting there

• From Aveiro: the drive is about 10km and usually takes 15 to 20 minutes. Regional buses run from the city to Barra and Costa Nova. Check current times, as they change with the season.
• From Porto: take a CP train to Aveiro (usually around 40 minutes to an hour and a quarter, depending on the train), then a bus or taxi. By car it’s about an hour on the A1 or A29.
• By taxi or ride-hailing app: the quickest option from Aveiro station if bus times don’t suit. See Uber vs Bolt vs taxi.
• Parking: there’s street parking along the avenue and near the beach, but it fills on summer weekends.

How long to spend

Allow two to four hours. A simple half-day: walk the striped house front, cross the dunes for the beach, eat a seafood lunch, then head north to the Barra lighthouse. Combine it with Aveiro in the morning or afternoon for a full day trip.

A one-day route from Porto

• Morning: early train to Aveiro, then a walk along the canals and a moliceiro boat ride.
• Lunch: bus or taxi to Costa Nova for seafood on the lagoon front.
• Afternoon: the striped houses, the beach and the lighthouse at Barra (on a Wednesday you may be able to climb it).
• Evening: back to Aveiro for ovos moles and the train to Porto.

Food

This is a seafood stop. Look for grilled fish, caldeirada (fish stew), eel dishes from the lagoon and fresh shellfish. In Aveiro, don’t miss ovos moles, the sweet egg-yolk treats in wafer shells. See the Portuguese seafood guide.

Ílhavo’s fishing past means bacalhau (salt cod) is on most menus too. Ask for the fish of the day, which is usually the best value. See the bacalhau guide.

Combine with Aveiro

Aveiro’s canals and moliceiro boats make a perfect pairing. Book a moliceiro ride. See the Aveiro day trip.

Where to stay

Stay in a striped house for the full experience. See places to stay in Costa Nova. See also where to stay in Aveiro.

When to go

July and August bring beach weather and crowds. Late spring and September are usually calmer and still pleasant. In winter the village is quiet and many places close, but the houses still look great on a sunny day.

Tips

• Wind: the Atlantic beach can be windy and the water cold.
• Summer weekends are busy, so arrive early.
• Respect: many of the houses are private homes.
• Swimming: the Atlantic here has strong currents. Swim only at lifeguarded beaches in season and follow the flags.
• Light: the houses face the lagoon, so late afternoon and early evening light is often the best for photos.

FAQ

Is Costa Nova worth visiting?

Yes, especially combined with Aveiro. The striped houses take under an hour to see, and the beach and lighthouse fill the rest of a half-day.

How do you get from Aveiro to Costa Nova?

It’s about 10km, so 15 to 20 minutes by car or taxi. Regional buses also run from the city, but check the times first.

Can you go inside the striped houses?

Most are private homes, so no. Some are rented out as holiday homes or guesthouses, which is the only way to stay in one.

Can you climb the Barra lighthouse?

Usually yes, on Wednesday afternoons, when the Maritime Authority opens it for free visits. There are 288 steps, and times can change.

More: the best day trips from Porto and the best beaches near Porto.

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