Where to Stay in Ericeira

Ericeira is a whitewashed fishing town turned surf capital, under an hour from Lisbon. It sits within a World Surfing Reserve, and its cobbled lanes are full of seafood restaurants and surf shops. Here’s where to stay, whether you’re here to surf, eat or just slow down.

Quick answer: stay in the old town for restaurants, sea views and walkable beaches. Surfers often prefer Ribamar and the coast to the north, close to Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos. Families may like the quieter south side near Foz do Lizandro. See places to stay in Ericeira.

Why stay in Ericeira

Ericeira gives you a real Portuguese seaside town, not a resort strip. Fishing boats still work from the harbour, the old town is blue and white, and the coast to the north has some of the most consistent waves in Europe. It was named a World Surfing Reserve in 2011, protecting a stretch of coast with seven famous breaks. It’s also close enough to Lisbon, Sintra and Mafra for easy day trips.

It has grown fast in recent years, with remote workers, surf schools and new cafes, but the old centre keeps its small-town feel. Out of the summer peak it’s a calm place to spend a few days by the sea within easy reach of the capital.

The best areas

The old town

Blue-and-white houses, little squares, clifftop views and the fishermen’s beach. It’s walkable to Praia dos Pescadores and Praia do Sul, and full of restaurants. This is the best base for most visitors, especially without a car. Expect guesthouses, small hotels and apartments in old townhouses. Ask about noise if you’re near the main squares on a summer weekend.

Best for: first visits, couples, food lovers and anyone arriving by bus. Watch out for: steep lanes, tight parking and higher prices in August.

Ribamar and the north

A village just north of town, near the famous surf breaks of Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos. There are surf houses, guesthouses and apartments here. Choose this area if surfing is the priority. It’s quieter at night, and you’ll want a car or a bike to reach the old town’s restaurants.

Best for: experienced surfers and longer stays. Watch out for: fewer shops and a longer walk back after dinner.

The south side and Foz do Lizandro

Calmer, with a wide river-mouth beach that suits families. The sand is long, there’s more parking, and the waves at Foz do Lizandro are friendlier for beginners. It’s a short drive into town.

Best for: families and beginner surfers. Watch out for: you will want a car for most evenings out.

Surf camps and surf houses

Many visitors stay in a surf camp, with shared rooms, lessons, boards and transport to the right beach each day. They suit solo travellers and anyone who wants to learn quickly. See surf camps in Portugal.

Surfing

Ericeira has waves for all levels. Beginners should book lessons at the gentler beaches, such as Foz do Lizandro or the beaches in town on smaller days, while Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos are for experienced surfers. Ribeira d’Ilhas has hosted international competitions. Autumn and winter bring the biggest swells; summer is smaller and better for learning. See Ericeira surf lessons. See surfing in Portugal.

Coxos is a powerful reef break over rocks, with a strong local crowd. If you’re not an advanced surfer, watch from the cliff instead. Respect the queue at every break, and ask a local surf school which beach suits the day’s conditions.

Things to do

• Eat seafood: shellfish and grilled fish are the speciality. Ericeira is also known for sea urchins (ouriços) when they’re in season.
• The Mafra Palace, a vast baroque palace and library, is nearby. See the Mafra Palace.
• Sunsets from the clifftop old town.
• Walk the coast: clifftop paths link the beaches north and south of town.
• Watch the surf: the viewpoint above Ribeira d’Ilhas is a great place to watch good surfers.
• The Capela de Santo António: a small white chapel on the cliff above the fishermen’s beach, with views over the harbour.

See the Ericeira day trip guide, or see Ericeira and Mafra tours.

How long to stay

Two nights is enough to eat well, walk the old town and try a surf lesson. Stay a week if you’re learning to surf. Ericeira also works as a base for Sintra, about 30 to 40 minutes away by car.

When to go

• Summer (June to September): warmest weather, busiest town and the highest prices. Book early for August.
• Spring and autumn: fewer crowds, good surf and lower prices.
• Winter: big waves for experienced surfers and quiet streets. Some places close or cut their hours.

The Atlantic stays cool all year, so bring or rent a wetsuit for surfing. Summer mornings can also bring sea mist that clears by midday.

Getting there

Buses run from Lisbon (Campo Grande) and take about an hour, sometimes longer at busy times. They’re now run by Carris Metropolitana, with several routes between Campo Grande and the Ericeira bus terminal. The fastest runs on the motorway without stopping in Mafra, but only at weekday peak times; others go via Mafra and take longer. Check the Carris Metropolitana site for current times. By car it’s around 45 minutes. Ericeira also combines well with Sintra. Parking in the old town is tight in summer, so ask your host where to leave the car.

The bus terminal is on the edge of town, about a 10 to 15 minute walk from the old centre, so pack light or arrange a taxi if you’re staying further out.

FAQ

Where is the best area to stay in Ericeira?

The old town suits most visitors: it is walkable, full of restaurants and close to the town beaches. Surfers often prefer Ribamar to the north, and families may like the quieter south near Foz do Lizandro.

Can you visit Ericeira without a car?

Yes, if you stay in the old town. Carris Metropolitana buses link it with Lisbon’s Campo Grande, and the centre and town beaches are walkable. For Ribamar, Coxos or Foz do Lizandro, a car or taxi helps.

Is Ericeira good for beginner surfers?

Yes. Surf schools take beginners to gentler beaches such as Foz do Lizandro, and summer has smaller waves. Leave Coxos and Ribeira d’Ilhas to experienced surfers.

Is Ericeira better than Cascais as a base?

Ericeira is better for surfing and a small-town feel. Cascais has a train to Lisbon, more hotels and calmer swimming beaches. See where to stay in Cascais.

More: where to stay in Sintra, where to stay in Cascais and the best beaches near Lisbon.

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