Graca, Lisbon: Viewpoints and Local Life

Graça sits high above Alfama on one of Lisbon’s seven hills. It’s a traditional, mostly residential neighbourhood with two of the city’s best viewpoints, old workers’ villages and tram 28 rattling through. It’s a great place to see everyday Lisbon life.

Quick answer: come for the views from the Miradouro da Graça and Senhora do Monte, one of Lisbon’s highest viewpoints. Ride tram 28 up the hill, wander to the Feira da Ladra flea market (Tuesdays and Saturdays), and visit the National Pantheon and São Vicente de Fora. See places to stay in Alfama and Graça.

Why go

Most visitors only see Graça through a tram window. Get off and you find a working neighbourhood: grocers, laundry on the balconies, old men playing cards and some of the widest views in Lisbon. It’s a short walk from Alfama and the castle, but it feels much less busy, especially in the morning.

Things to do

• Miradouro da Graça: a terrace by the Graça church and convent, now officially named after the poet Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen. You look across to the castle, the Baixa and the river, with a kiosk café under the pines. Allow 20 to 30 minutes, longer with a drink.
• Igreja e Convento da Graça: the big church that gives the area its name, part of an Augustinian convent founded in 1271. Most of the church fell in the 1755 earthquake, and it was rebuilt with a lighter, late Baroque interior. Step inside if the doors are open.
• Miradouro da Senhora do Monte: a short, steep walk higher, beside a small chapel. The view is wide, taking in the castle, downtown and the river. It faces west, so it’s popular at sunset and gets crowded on summer evenings.
• Vila Berta and the vilas: early 20th-century housing built around courtyards and lanes, with iron balconies and tiled fronts. Vila Berta, finished around 1911 for small business families rather than factory workers, is the prettiest. Bairro Estrela d’Ouro, built in 1907 to 1909 by a sweets maker for his workers, has 120 small homes on lanes named after his family. Remember people live here, so keep your voice down.
• São Vicente de Fora: a large monastery just below Graça, with cloisters full of blue and white tiles, the tombs of the Braganza kings and a rooftop with views over Alfama. It’s open daily, usually from 10am to 6pm (7pm in summer). Allow about an hour. See Lisbon’s churches.
• The Feira da Ladra: Lisbon’s flea market, on Campo de Santa Clara, held on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. Its roots go back to the 13th century, and it has been on this square since 1882. Expect old tiles, records, books, clothes and plenty of junk. Go early, as stalls start packing up from early afternoon.
• The National Pantheon: the white-domed church of Santa Engrácia, which took so long to build (it was only finished in 1966) that its name became a Portuguese saying for never-ending works. Famous Portuguese figures are buried here, including the fado singer Amália Rodrigues. Climb up to the dome terrace for views over the river. It’s closed on Mondays.

A half-day walk

Ride tram 28 up from Martim Moniz and get off near the Largo da Graça. Start at the Miradouro da Graça, then climb to Senhora do Monte. Come back down via Vila Berta, then walk downhill to São Vicente de Fora, the Feira da Ladra (on market days) and the National Pantheon. From there you can drop into Alfama. This takes three to four hours with the two monuments. If you only have time for the views, an hour is enough.

Food and drink

Graça is good for simple, everyday Portuguese food. Look for small tascas with a short lunch menu of the day, grilled fish, bitoque (steak with an egg on top) and soup. The miradouro kiosk is the classic spot for a coffee or a beer with the view. For more ideas, see what to eat in Portugal.

When to go

• Mornings: the quietest time for photos at the viewpoints.
• Sunset: lovely at Senhora do Monte, but arrive early for a spot.
• June: Graça joins in the Santo António street parties, with grilled sardines and music in the squares. See the Santo António festival.

Getting there

Take tram 28 from Martim Moniz or the Baixa, or bus 734 from Martim Moniz. Walking up from Alfama or Mouraria is steep but rewarding. See Mouraria and Lisbon public transport.

• The Graça funicular: a small modern funicular from Rua dos Lagares in Mouraria up to the Miradouro da Graça. It reopened on 30 April 2026 and takes about a minute and a half, but carries only 14 people, so expect a short wait at busy times. A ticket bought on board costs about €4.30 for two trips, and Lisbon travel passes are valid.
• Bus 734: runs between Martim Moniz and Santa Apólonia station via Graça, and is often less crowded than the tram.

Practical tips

• Tram 28: board at the Martim Moniz end for the best chance of a seat, and watch your bag. See the trams guide.
• Shoes: the hills and cobbles are steep and slippery when wet.
• Monuments: the Pantheon closes on Mondays, while São Vicente de Fora opens daily. Both close on some holidays, so check current times before you go.
• Late drinks: since February 2026, Lisbon shops and kiosks can’t sell alcohol to drink outside after 11pm from Sunday to Thursday, or after midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

Stay in Graça?

Graça is quieter and more local than Alfama, with great views, but it’s up a steep hill. It suits travellers happy to use trams and taxis. See where to stay in Lisbon.

FAQ

How do you get up to Graça without the climb?

Take tram 28 or bus 734 from Martim Moniz, or the Graça funicular from Rua dos Lagares in Mouraria, which reopened in April 2026. All three drop you close to the Miradouro da Graça.

Which viewpoint is better, Graça or Senhora do Monte?

Senhora do Monte is higher and has the wider view, so it’s the pick for sunset. The Miradouro da Graça has the kiosk café and shade, so it’s better for a slow drink.

When is the Feira da Ladra?

Every Tuesday and Saturday on Campo de Santa Clara, just behind São Vicente de Fora. Mornings are best, as stalls pack up from early afternoon.

Is Graça a good base in Lisbon?

Yes, if you want a quiet, local feel and don’t mind hills. It’s further from the Baixa and the nightlife of Bairro Alto than Alfama is, so you’ll use trams, the funicular or taxis more.

More: the best Lisbon viewpoints and the best sunset spots.

See also: the Feira da Ladra flea market, the National Pantheon and São Vicente de Fora.

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