Fanal Forest, Madeira: How to Visit the Misty Laurel Forest

Fanal is one of the most magical places in Madeira: a high grassy plateau dotted with ancient, gnarled laurel trees, often wrapped in drifting fog. It lies in the heart of Madeira’s laurel forest country (the Laurisilva is a UNESCO World Heritage site), and it’s a favourite with photographers.

Quick answer: Fanal is in the northwest highlands, about 1 hour 15 minutes from Funchal. Come on a foggy morning for the most atmospheric photos, or a clear day for walks. Wander among the old til trees, and combine it with Porto Moniz and Seixal. Many west-island tours stop here. See west Madeira tours.

Why go

Most of Madeira’s famous sights are either coastal or dramatic mountain peaks. Fanal is different. It sits at roughly 1,100 to 1,200 metres above sea level, on gentle green slopes around a small old volcanic crater. Huge til trees stand alone in the grass, twisted and covered in moss. When the cloud rolls in, the whole place looks like a film set.

What you’ll see

• Ancient trees: the til (Ocotea foetens) is a native laurel. According to Madeira’s tourism board, some of the trees here were growing before the island was discovered in the 15th century.
• Fog: clouds roll across the plateau, creating an eerie, fairytale atmosphere. It can arrive and clear within minutes.
• The laurel forest: a relic of forests that once covered much of southern Europe. Fanal is a protected rest and quiet reserve inside the Madeira Natural Park.
• The crater and pond: a shallow dip in the land that holds a small pond after rain and is often dry in summer.
• Cows often graze among the trees. Give them space.

A gentle wander around the main grove takes 45 minutes to an hour, longer if you are taking photos.

Walking: the Vereda do Fanal (PR13)

For a proper hike, the official PR13 Vereda do Fanal runs 10.8 km one way from Assobiadores on the Paul da Serra plateau down to Fanal, through laurel forest. It is rated moderate and takes about 4 hours. It is linear, so you need a lift back or a tour that handles transport.

Madeira now asks walkers on its official PR trails to book a time slot on the SIMplifica portal and pay a fee. For PR13 this is listed at €4.50 for visitors over 12, with under-12s free. The fee started at €3 in 2025 and went up in 2026, so check the current price before you go. See levada walks for more on the booking system.

How the booking works

• Time slots: entry is sold in 30-minute slots, and you must start walking within yours.
• Everyone registers: children under 12 don’t pay, but they still need a place on the booking.
• QR code: you pay online and get a code to show the rangers at the start of the trail.
• Two trails in a day: a combined day rate (€9 in 2026) covers two or more PR trails on the same day, but not PR1.

Getting there

• By car: the easiest way. Fanal is on the ER209, the mountain road that runs between Paul da Serra and the north coast near Ribeira da Janela. From Funchal allow about 1 hour 15 minutes. From Porto Moniz or Seixal it is a much shorter drive up a winding road.
• Parking: there are roadside spaces near the forest, and they fill up on fine days and at weekends. Madeira’s forest authority (IFCN) has set a limit of 3,000 visits a day for Fanal and announced plans for boardwalks, controlled parking, wardens and possibly a separate entry fee. By late summer 2026 the limit was still not being enforced on the ground, so look for new signs and rules.
• By bus: Madeira’s buses have run as one SIGA network since July 2024, and every route was renumbered in March 2026. Buses reach Porto Moniz and Seixal from Funchal, but none climbs up to Fanal, so you would need a taxi from the coast.
• Tours: many west Madeira day tours include a stop here, which saves the mountain driving. See the best Madeira tours.
• Driving tips: the roads are narrow and bendy, and fog can cut visibility to a few metres. Drive slowly, use your lights and watch for cows on the road. See getting around Madeira.

How long to spend

One to two hours is enough for most people. A good one-day route from Funchal: drive up early to Fanal for the fog, then go down to Porto Moniz for a swim in the lava pools and lunch, then east along the north coast to Seixal and the Véu da Noiva viewpoint before returning through the tunnels to Funchal.

Food

There is no café in the forest, so bring water and snacks. Porto Moniz and Seixal have places to eat. Look out for espetada (beef on a bay-leaf skewer), black scabbardfish (espada) with banana, bolo do caco garlic bread and fresh limpets.

When to go

• For fog: autumn, winter and spring mornings give the best chance, though cloud can appear at any time of year.
• For walking: late spring to early autumn usually has drier paths.
• Timing: arrive early to beat the tour groups and find parking.

Tips

• Layers: it’s cool and damp at this altitude, and usually much colder than Funchal. Bring a waterproof.
• Stay on paths and respect the protected area. Don’t climb the trees, as erosion and damage to the roots are real problems here.
• Photography: early mornings are best.
• Trails: some official walks here require booking. See levada walks.

FAQ

Do you have to pay to visit Fanal?

At the time of writing, there was no separate ticket to walk among the trees by the road, but the official PR13 trail needs a SIMplifica booking and fee. A Fanal access fee is being studied, so check before you go.

Can you get to Fanal by bus?

No. SIGA buses stop at Porto Moniz and Seixal on the coast below, but none goes up to the plateau, so drive, take a taxi or join a tour.

When is Fanal foggiest?

Mornings from autumn to spring give the best chance of fog, but cloud can roll in at any time of year and clear again within minutes.

How long do you need at Fanal?

One to two hours for a wander and photos, or most of a day if you walk the PR13 from Paul da Serra.

More: Seixal, Porto Moniz and the Madeira itinerary.

See also: Levada das 25 Fontes.

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