Estufa Fria: Lisbon's Secret Greenhouse

Hidden in a corner of Parque Eduardo VII, the Estufa Fria is a magical green escape in the middle of Lisbon: a series of shaded greenhouses filled with ferns, palms, tropical plants, ponds and waterfalls. It’s peaceful, cool on hot days and great for a slow hour.

Quick answer: the Estufa Fria is in Parque Eduardo VII, near Marquês de Pombal metro station. It has a cool greenhouse (the “estufa fria”) and two warmer houses with tropical and desert plants. Allow about an hour, then walk up the park for the view down Avenida da Liberdade to the river.

Why go

Lisbon is a city of hills, traffic and bright sun. The Estufa Fria is the opposite: shade, running water and birdsong, a few minutes’ walk from one of the busiest roundabouts in town. It opened in 1933 in an old basalt quarry, designed by the architect Raul Carapinha. The whole complex covers about 1.5 hectares, so it feels much bigger than you expect from the entrance.

A little history

The quarry was abandoned after workers struck an underground spring. The hollow then became a nursery for the trees planted along Avenida da Liberdade, and in 1926 Raul Carapinha drew up plans to turn it into a garden. In the 1940s the architect Keil do Amaral remodelled it along with the rest of the park, adding the entrance lake and a large events hall known as the Nave. The garden closed in 2009 because its roof structure had become unsafe, and it reopened in 2011 after two years of restoration.

What to see

The cool greenhouse (Estufa Fria)

This is the largest part and the original heart of the garden, at about 8,100 square metres. There is no glass and no heating. A roof of wooden slats filters the sun and keeps the temperature mild all year. Paths wind past ferns, palms, azaleas, camellias, small lakes with fish, little waterfalls and stone grottoes. You’ll also spot sculptures by 20th-century Portuguese artists tucked among the plants, including works by Leopoldo de Almeida and Soares Branco.

The hot greenhouse (Estufa Quente)

Added in 1975, this glasshouse is warm and humid, and covers about 3,000 square metres. It holds tropical plants such as coffee and mango trees, plus orchids and other exotic flowers. On a cold winter day it’s a pleasant place to warm up.

The sweet greenhouse (Estufa Doce)

Also from 1975, this is the dry house, full of cacti, aloes and other succulents in every shape and size. It’s smaller, so ten or fifteen minutes is enough.

Parque Eduardo VII

Outside, the formal park climbs the hill in clipped box hedges. Walk to the top for the classic view straight down Avenida da Liberdade and the Baixa to the River Tagus. On the opposite side of the park is the tiled Pavilhão Carlos Lopes. From late May to mid-June the park also hosts the Lisbon Book Fair, which is free to enter.

Getting there

• Metro: Marquês de Pombal (blue and yellow lines) is the nearest station. Parque (blue line) is also close. From either, it’s a walk of about 10 minutes.
• The entrance: it’s on the west side of the park, on Alameda Cardeal Cerejeira. Follow the signs along the edge of the park rather than climbing through the middle.
• On foot: from Restauradores, walk the length of Avenida da Liberdade (about 25 minutes, gently uphill) and carry on into the park.

Opening times and tickets

The garden is run by Lisbon City Council. It’s usually open from Tuesday to Sunday and closed on Mondays. In the summer timetable (roughly April to late October) it usually opens from 10am to 7pm, and in winter from about 9am to 5pm, with last entry half an hour before closing. It also closes on a few public holidays, such as Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.

The entry fee is small, about €3 to €4 for adults, with roughly half price for students and seniors. Children under six go free, and so do Lisboa Card holders. Entry has also been free for everyone on Sunday and public holiday mornings until 2pm. Check current times and prices before you go, as the garden sometimes closes for events or maintenance.

How long to spend

Allow about an hour for all three greenhouses at a gentle pace. Add 30 minutes if you want to walk up through the park to the viewpoint.

A suggested half day

• Morning: stroll up Avenida da Liberdade from Restauradores.
• Late morning: the Estufa Fria, then the viewpoint at the top of the park.
• Afternoon: walk about 20 minutes north to the Gulbenkian for its museum and gardens.

When to go

Any time of year works. In summer it’s one of the coolest spots in the city on a hot afternoon. In spring the azaleas and camellias are at their best. On a wet day the covered paths make it a good option too, see Lisbon on a rainy day. Weekday mornings are the quietest time, while Sunday mornings can be busier because of the free entry.

Tips

• Summer: a cool refuge on hot afternoons.
• Kids: they love the ponds, fish and little bridges. See Lisbon with kids.
• Paths: some are narrow, uneven or have steps, so it isn’t ideal for pushchairs or wheelchairs everywhere.
• Floors: they can be damp and slippery near the water, so wear shoes with some grip.
• Food: there’s no need to bring much, as the park and Avenida da Liberdade have kiosks and cafés.
• Events: the Nave hosts concerts, fairs and private functions, so parts of the garden can be busy or closed off on some days.
• Combine with Avenida da Liberdade and the Gulbenkian. See Avenida da Liberdade and the Gulbenkian.

FAQ

Is the Estufa Fria open on Mondays?

No. It usually opens from Tuesday to Sunday, so plan a different day for your visit.

Is the Estufa Fria free?

Not usually, but the fee is only a few euros, and entry is free with the Lisboa Card and for children under six. It has also been free for everyone on Sunday and holiday mornings until 2pm.

Is the Estufa Fria worth visiting?

Yes, if you want a calm, shady hour away from the traffic. It suits plant lovers, families and anyone escaping the summer heat, and it’s right next to the park’s famous viewpoint.

How long do you need at the Estufa Fria?

About an hour covers all three greenhouses. Allow an extra 30 minutes to walk up the park to the viewpoint.

More: free things to do in Lisbon and things to do in Lisbon.

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