Santana, Madeira: The Triangular Houses

Santana, on Madeira’s green north coast, is famous for its little triangular houses: A-frame cottages with thatched roofs and red doors, painted in bright colours. It’s also a base for some of the island’s best hikes. Here’s what to see.

Quick answer: Santana is about 45 minutes to an hour from Funchal. See the traditional houses in the centre, visit the Madeira Theme Park if you have kids, and use it as a base for the Caldeirão Verde levada walk and Pico Ruivo from Achada do Teixeira. Many east-island tours stop here. See Madeira tours.

Why go

Santana is the best place on the island to see Madeira’s old rural life. The thatched houses were once ordinary farm homes on the north coast. Today they are the island’s most photographed buildings. The town also sits close to two of Madeira’s classic walks, so it works well as a stop on a north coast drive or as a quiet base for hikers.

In 2011 UNESCO named the whole municipality of Santana a Biosphere Reserve, recognising its mix of laurel forest, farmland and coast. Expect steep terraces of vegetables and fruit, cows grazing on small plots and mist drifting down from the mountains.

Things to do

• The Santana houses: traditional A-frame cottages, a few of which you can visit for free in the town centre, next to the town hall. Several now sell souvenirs and crafts. Allow 20 to 30 minutes. Tour coaches tend to arrive from late morning to mid-afternoon, so come early or late for quieter photos.
• Madeira Theme Park: a family attraction about the island’s history and culture, set over about 7 hectares on the edge of town. It has its own village of traditional houses, craft demonstrations, a small farm and play areas. Allow two to three hours, and check opening days before you go.
• Caldeirão Verde: a levada walk (the PR9) through laurel forest to a high waterfall, starting at Queimadas forest park above Santana. It’s about 13 km there and back, with tunnels, so bring a torch. Allow four to five hours. The extension to Caldeirão do Inferno is closed. See Madeira levada walks.
• Pico Ruivo: the shortest route to Madeira’s highest peak starts at Achada do Teixeira, above Santana. It’s a paved path of a little under 3 km each way, steep in places. Allow about two to three hours return. See Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo.
• Rocha do Navio cable car: a short cable car drops down the cliffs to a small coastal nature reserve and a few farmed terraces by the sea. It was built mainly for local farmers and has had long closures for repairs and after rockfalls, so check it’s running before you go.
• The north coast viewpoints: cliffs, waterfalls and the São Jorge coastline.

The houses up close

The casas de colmo were built with a wooden frame and a steep roof thatched with straw, which sheds the north coast’s heavy rain. Families lived on the ground floor and used the loft under the roof to store crops. Most of the ones you see today have been restored for visitors, but a few genuine examples still stand in the fields around town.

Getting there

• By car: the fast road (VR1) and the tunnels through the mountains make the drive from Funchal about 45 minutes to an hour. Parking in the centre is limited around midday. See getting around Madeira.
• By bus: CAM runs services from Funchal to Santana (routes were renumbered under the SIGA network in March 2026, so check the current timetable). The trip usually takes well over an hour, and buses are not frequent, so check the timetable before you go.
• Trailheads: Queimadas and Achada do Teixeira are up narrow mountain roads with no bus. You’ll need a car, a taxi or a tour.

How long to spend

For the houses and a viewpoint, an hour or two is enough. A good day plan: drive up early and walk to Pico Ruivo from Achada do Teixeira, have lunch in Santana and see the houses, then head down the coast to Porto da Cruz in the afternoon. If you want to walk Caldeirão Verde as well, stay a night.

At Achada do Teixeira, look for the Homem em Pé (“standing man”), a tall column of volcanic rock a short walk from the car park. It’s also where the one-way PR1 hike from Pico do Arieiro now ends, so you’ll see tired hikers waiting for their lifts.

Food

Look for Madeiran staples: espetada (beef skewers grilled over a fire), bolo do caco (flat bread with garlic butter), milho frito (fried cornmeal cubes) and fresh fish. Finish with a glass of poncha, the island’s drink of sugar cane spirit, honey and lemon.

On the coast, try lapas, limpets grilled in their shells with garlic butter and lemon. Inland at Ribeiro Frio, beside a trout farm that dates from 1960, trout is the local speciality.

Nearby

• Porto da Cruz: a rum distillery and a seafront with natural pools. The old sugar cane mill usually works only during the cane harvest in spring.
• Ribeiro Frio: the start of the short Balcões walk to a great viewpoint.
• Ponta de São Lourenço: see the PR8 trail.

Tips

• Weather: the north is cooler and wetter than Funchal. Bring a layer and a rain jacket, even in summer.
• Trail fees: official trails such as Pico Ruivo and Caldeirão Verde need a booked time slot and a fee of €4.50 per person, paid through the regional SIMplifica system. The full PR1 from Pico do Arieiro costs €10.50. See the levada guide.
• Start early: clouds often build over the peaks by late morning, so go up first thing for the views.
• Festival: Santana hosts a big regional folk festival, known as “24 Horas a Bailar” (24 hours of dancing), usually in July. Check dates if you want to see it, or avoid it if you want a quiet stay.

FAQ

How do I get from Funchal to Santana?

Driving takes about 45 minutes to an hour through the mountain tunnels. CAM buses also run from Funchal, but they take longer and are infrequent, so check the timetable.

Can you go inside the Santana houses?

Yes. The restored houses next to the town hall are free to visit, and several are small craft and souvenir shops.

Do I need to book the Pico Ruivo walk from Achada do Teixeira?

Yes. Like all official trails, it needs a time slot booked on the SIMplifica portal and a fee of €4.50 per person. Book before you set off, as mobile signal in the mountains is patchy.

More: the best Madeira tours and where to stay in Madeira.

See also: the Levada do Caldeirão Verde, the Vereda dos Balcões and the Levada do Rei.

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