Funchal Old Town: Painted Doors and Poncha

Funchal’s Old Town (Zona Velha) is the most atmospheric part of Madeira’s capital: cobbled lanes of fishermen’s houses whose doors have been turned into an open-air art gallery, packed with restaurants, bars and poncha stalls. Here’s how to explore it.

Quick answer: walk Rua de Santa Maria to see the painted doors, visit the yellow Fort of São Tiago by the sea, browse the nearby Mercado dos Lavradores, and stay for dinner and a poncha. The cable car to Monte leaves from the edge of the Old Town.

Why go

The Zona Velha is where Funchal grew up, around the eastern end of the bay. For years it was run down. Since an art project began here in 2010, it has become the liveliest part of the city. It is compact, flat and right next to the market and the cable car.

Things to do

• The painted doors: an art project transformed the old doors of Rua de Santa Maria into colourful artworks. The project, called Arte de Portas Abertas (Art of Open Doors), started in 2010 and now covers around 200 doors, painted by local artists and designers. Most are on Rua de Santa Maria, with more in the side streets and on parallel Rua Dom Carlos I. Allow 30 to 45 minutes to stroll and take photos.
• Fort of São Tiago: a 17th-century fort on the seafront, begun in 1614 to defend Funchal bay against pirates. Its bright yellow walls are one of the city’s best-known sights, and there are good views along the coast from the walls. You can usually go inside on weekdays for a small fee, so check times before you go.
• Mercado dos Lavradores: the colourful market with exotic fruit, flowers and fish, a short walk away. The market, designed by Edmundo Tavares, opened in 1940, and its entrance and fish hall are decorated with large tile panels. Go in the morning, as it is usually closed on Sundays. Fruit sellers often hand out tastings, but check prices before you buy, as some stalls charge tourist rates.
• Capela do Corpo Santo: a small chapel in the heart of the lanes, built by Funchal’s fishermen in the late 15th century and one of the oldest churches on the island. Only its simple Manueline front survives from the original building.
• The seafront: a small beach and swimming spots below the fort, including the Barreirinha bathing area just east of the fort.
• Restaurants and bars: espetada, black scabbardfish and poncha.
• The cable car to Monte. See the Monte toboggan.

The cable car to Monte

The Teleférico do Funchal leaves from the Almirante Reis gardens at the western edge of the Old Town and climbs to Monte in about 15 minutes, with big views over the city and harbour. It closed for an upgrade from January 2026 and reopened in early April with 44 cabins, five of them with glass floors. In 2026 a standard adult ticket costs about €16 one way and €22 return, and the glass-floor cabins about €26 and €32. Check current times before you go.

At the top you can visit the Monte Palace gardens and ride the famous wicker toboggans back down part of the way, to Livramento. Since May 2026 the toboggan costs €30 for one person, €40 for two and €60 for three per sled, and you pay in cash only.

Getting there

• On foot: the Old Town is a 10 to 15 minute walk east along the seafront from the cathedral and the marina.
• From the cruise port: it is an easy walk along the waterfront. See Funchal’s cruise port.
• By car: parking in the lanes is very limited. Use one of the public car parks nearby and walk in.
• From the airport: Funchal is about 20 to 30 minutes by car or taxi. The airport bus, run by CAM as part of the island’s SIGA bus network, also runs to the city centre.
• By bus: the yellow Horários do Funchal city buses run up to Monte and the Botanical Garden. Every Madeira bus route was renumbered with three digits on 9 March 2026, so ignore route numbers in older guides. See getting around Madeira.

How long to spend

Half a day is enough for the doors, the fort and the market. A good half-day route: start at the Mercado dos Lavradores at 9am, walk down Rua de Santa Maria for the doors, follow the lane to the Fort of São Tiago, then take the cable car to Monte for the gardens and the toboggan. Come back to the Old Town in the evening for dinner.

Food and drink

• Espetada: beef cubes grilled on a bay-leaf skewer, often hung from a hook at the table.
• Espada: black scabbardfish, usually served with fried banana.
• Bolo do caco: round flatbread served warm with garlic butter.
• Lapas: limpets grilled in their shells with garlic and lemon.
• Poncha: the local drink, made with sugar-cane spirit, honey and lemon. It is strong, so pace yourself.
• Madeira wine: see the Madeira wine guide.

When to go

• All year: Funchal is mild in every season. See the best time to visit Madeira.
• Festivals: Carnival in February or March, the Flower Festival from late April into May, the Atlantic Festival with Saturday fireworks in June, the Wine Festival from late August to mid-September and the huge New Year’s Eve fireworks. Dates vary, so check the year’s calendar. See New Year’s Eve in Madeira.

Tips

• Evenings are lively, especially at weekends.
• Restaurant touts: some lanes have them. Be polite and choose for yourself.
• Morning light: the doors are easier to photograph before the restaurant tables go out.
• Tourist tax: Funchal charges €2 per person per night, for up to seven nights, usually paid at your accommodation.
• Stay nearby: see where to stay in Madeira.

FAQ

Where are the painted doors in Funchal?

Most are on Rua de Santa Maria in the Old Town, with more in the side streets. There are around 200 in all.

How much is the Funchal cable car?

In 2026 it costs about €16 one way and €22 return for adults, or about €26 and €32 in a glass-floor cabin.

How much is the Monte toboggan?

Since May 2026 it costs €30 for one person, €40 for two and €60 for three per sled. Bring cash, as cards are not accepted.

Is the Mercado dos Lavradores open on Sundays?

It is usually closed on Sundays and public holidays. Come on a weekday or a Saturday morning for the liveliest stalls.

More: things to do in Funchal, 3 days in Madeira and Funchal’s cruise port.

See also: the Mercado dos Lavradores, the Madeira Flower Festival and Monte Palace Tropical Garden.

Prices and details change, so please double-check before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us in the groups.