Curral das Freiras: The Nuns' Valley

Curral das Freiras, the “Nuns’ Valley”, is a village hidden at the bottom of a deep, mountain-ringed valley in the heart of Madeira. Nuns from Funchal are said to have hidden here from pirates. The view from the Eira do Serrado viewpoint above is one of the most spectacular on the island.

Quick answer: Curral das Freiras is about 30 minutes from Funchal. Stop at the Eira do Serrado viewpoint for the view down into the valley, then drive or walk down to the village. Try the local chestnut specialities: cake, soup and liqueur. A chestnut festival takes place around the start of November. See places to stay.

Why go

Only about 16 km from Funchal, Curral das Freiras feels like another world. The village sits deep in a bowl of steep peaks in the middle of the island, and for centuries the only way in was on foot. A road and tunnels now make it an easy half-day trip, and the view from the rim is one of the most memorable sights on Madeira.

It’s a good choice if you want mountain scenery without a long hike. The village belongs to the municipality of Câmara de Lobos, so it pairs well with a stop at that fishing harbour on the way back.

A little history

The land once belonged to the nuns of the Santa Clara convent in Funchal, which is how the valley got its name. Local tradition says the nuns fled up here in 1566, when French pirates attacked Funchal. The village stayed isolated for a long time, and its people lived from farming the terraces, chestnuts and cherries.

For most of its history, goods and people went in and out on a steep mule track over the rim. The first road arrived in the 20th century, and the tunnels came much later.

Things to do

• Eira do Serrado: a viewpoint at about 1,095 metres, high above the valley. A short path from the car park leads to the lookout, with the white houses of the village far below. Allow 20 to 30 minutes here.
• The village: a quiet church square surrounded by peaks, with a few cafes and shops selling local products.
• Chestnuts: try chestnut cake, chestnut soup and chestnut liqueur. You will also see ginja, a cherry liqueur, for sale.
• Hiking: an old path links the viewpoint and the village. It’s steep with many zigzags, so it’s easier walked downhill. Wear proper shoes and check that it’s open, as rockfalls can close Madeira’s mountain paths.

The walk down from Eira do Serrado

The path drops more than 400 metres from the viewpoint to the village on old cobbles and steps. Most people take about an hour going down. Going up is much harder, so plan to catch the bus or a taxi back to the top if you left a car there.

Longer hikes

Experienced walkers can start the PR2, Vereda do Urzal, from the village, a long trail north to Boaventura that needs a pickup at the end. Like Madeira’s other official trails, it needs a SIMplifica booking, usually about €4.50. See Madeira levada walks for easier options.

Getting there

• By car: from Funchal, follow signs for Curral das Freiras. The road to Eira do Serrado branches off before the tunnel to the village. Allow about 30 minutes each way. Parking at the viewpoint is limited at busy times.
• By bus: Horários do Funchal buses run from central Funchal to the village (Madeira’s routes were renumbered under the SIGA network in March 2026, so check the current number on the SIGA timetable), with some services stopping at Eira do Serrado. Check current times, as they change by season.
• By tour: many half-day and island tours include the viewpoint. See the best Madeira tours.

On the bus, the ride to the village takes a little over half an hour. Only some departures go up to Eira do Serrado, and you usually need to tell the driver when you board that you want that stop. Pick up a timetable or check the operator’s website the day before, and note the last bus back. For more on buses and driving, see getting around Madeira.

How long to spend

Half a day is plenty.

A half-day route

• Early morning: drive or take the bus up to Eira do Serrado while the sky is clear.
• Mid-morning: walk down the old path to the village, or drive down through the tunnel.
• Lunch: chestnut soup and something sweet in the village.
• Afternoon: back to Funchal, or on to Câmara de Lobos on the coast. See Câmara de Lobos.

Food

• Chestnut soup: thick and warming, ideal on a cool day.
• Chestnut cake and bread: sold in the village cafes.
• Liqueurs: chestnut liqueur and ginja. Go easy if you are driving.
• Island classics: espetada beef skewers and bolo do caco garlic bread.

When to go

• Festa da Castanha: the chestnut festival is held around 31 October and 1 November, with stalls, music and lots of chestnut food. Check the dates each year.
• Spring and autumn: green slopes and usually clearer air for walking.
• Winter: the valley is colder than the coast and can be cloudy, but clear winter days give sharp views.

The chestnut festival has run since 1983 and is organised by the local Casa do Povo. The highlight is a parade with floats and hundreds of people in costume. Extra buses usually run from Funchal on 1 November, but the road and village get very busy, so go early.

Tips

• Clouds: the valley can fill with mist, so come on a clear morning.
• Layers: the viewpoint is over 1,000 metres up and much cooler than Funchal.
• Tours: many Madeira tours include the viewpoint. See the best Madeira tours.

FAQ

How do you get to Curral das Freiras without a car?

Take Horários do Funchal bus 81 from central Funchal. It takes a little over half an hour to the village, and some services stop at Eira do Serrado if you ask the driver.

Can you walk from Eira do Serrado to Curral das Freiras?

Yes. An old cobbled path zigzags down from the viewpoint to the village in about an hour. It’s steep, so wear good shoes and check that it’s open after heavy rain.

When is the Curral das Freiras chestnut festival?

The Festa da Castanha usually takes place around 31 October and 1 November, with the parade on 1 November. Check the exact programme each year.

Is Curral das Freiras worth visiting?

Yes, if the weather is clear. The view from Eira do Serrado is one of Madeira’s best, and the whole trip fits into half a day from Funchal.

More: the Madeira itinerary and Portugal’s hidden gems.

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